Medesthetics

NOV-DEC 2016

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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Latest Findings "Two newer ingredients in moisturizers worth mentioning "Two newer ingredients in moisturizers worth mentioning are niacinamide, which studies show can improve skin hydra- tion, and acetyl hexapeptide-37 (Diffuporine, Lipotec), which tion, and acetyl hexapeptide-37 (Diffuporine, Lipotec), which up-regulates aquaporin-3, helping to move water from inside the body to the epidermis," says Kulesza. A study published in the April 2016 issue of the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology compared high and low molecular weight HA with a newer crosslinked resilient HA (RHA). Results of the small study indicated that RHA, a proprietary ingredient in ALPHAEON's TEOXANE line of products, is a ingredient in ALPHAEON's TEOXANE line of products, is a more effective moisturizer than the other two types of HA. more effective moisturizer than the other two types of HA. The company combines RHA with NovHyal (n-acetyl glucosamine-6-phosphate). "NovHyal is a humectant, but it also helps prevent dehydration by causing the skin to internally make more HA," says Dr. Baumann. "The best and most interesting new technology is SENTÉ with heparan sulfate (HS), a natural component of the skin that actively promotes skin health," she adds. "HS reminds me of HA. With age, levels of endogenous HS in the skin decrease resulting in visible signs of aging." Though long considered effective, HS has not previously been used in skincare formulations because it is unable to permeate the skin barrier. "Endogenous HS is too large and highly polar to penetrate the skin and, therefore, it is not suitable for topical cosmetic products. SENTÉ's Heparan Sulfate Analog (HSA), on the contrary, provides a size-, shape- and charge-modifi ed, stable HS form that can be safely and effectively delivered to the skin," says Dr. Baumann. "When used topically, it promotes the formation of a healthy and functional extracellular matrix resulting in fi rmer, more elastic and stronger skin." (The role of HS in the treatment of photodamage is explored by Richard L. Gallo, MD, PhD, et al, in the July 2015 issue of the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.) Both HA and HS are glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). "These ingredients are well known for being 'endogenous super-hydrators' as they bind and hold water, providing not only appropriate skin hydration but also structural integrity as well as preserving collagen and elastin fi ber function," says Dr. Baumann. As we age, both growth factor and endogenous HS lev- As we age, both growth factor and endogenous HS lev- els fall, which impacts skin quality. "HS or its protein-bound forms (heparan sulfate proteoglycans such as syndecan, glypican and perlecan) modulate key processes in the skin such as cell proliferation, migration, communication and activation. This is due to their capacity to bind, store, pres- ent, degrade and amplify key signaling molecules, such as growth factors and cytokines," says Dr. Baumann. "Thus, growth factors and cytokines," says Dr. Baumann. "Thus, growth factors and cytokines," says Dr. Baumann. "Thus, mature skin will be strongly activated by its endogenous growth factors as cell signals are amplifi ed by HSA." growth factors as cell signals are amplifi ed by HSA." The needs of aging skin can pose challenges for practitioners as patients often need a combination of practitioners as patients often need a combination of collagen-stimulating topicals, lightening ingredients and intense hydrators to replace lost NMF. "Fortunately, the skin intense hydrators to replace lost NMF. "Fortunately, the skin is the one organ that can be treated directly with topical moisturizers, which are key to maintaining proper skin hydration," says Kononov. Linda W. Lewis is the contributing editor of MedEsthetics. Linda W. Lewis is the contributing editor of MedEsthetics. QUENCHING THE THIRST BACKGROUND: ANTHONY BRADSHAW © GETTY IMAGES; TOP: SMITH COLLECTION © GETTY IMAGES 28 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 | Med Esthetics "The skin is the one organ that can be treated directly with topical moisturizers, which are key to maintaining proper skin hydration. "

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