Medesthetics

SEP 2017

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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with a loose setting powder to prevent smudges. Tap the powder over the makeup, let it set for two minutes and then use the brush to remove excess powder. COVERING ACNE BLEMISHES No matter what grade of acne the patient has—from mild congestion to papules to cysts and nodules—camoufl age makeup can help. Clients may have varying degrees and shades of pigmen- tation, such as redness from active acne, along with brown and purple spots signaling infl ammation and post-infl amma- tory hyperpigmentation. To fi nd the right shade to cover each concern, I swatch the foundation shade(s) from the orbital bone all the way to the jawline. This ensures that you are testing each shade in all varying conditions. Once I have chosen my shade (or shades), I apply three drops of the Flawless Creator foundation drops onto a blending sponge or fl at-top buffi ng foundation brush. Because acneic skin can be sensitive, I gently tap and buff the foundation into the skin and smooth it down to the jawline (and under the chin for those suffering with post- adolescent/hormonal acne). I touch up any areas that need more intense coverage with one more drop of the foundation using my fi ngertip to directly tap it onto the area(s) needing coverage. Because oil production is amped up in patients strug- gling with acne, makeup does not adhere well to the skin. To prevent running and smudging, fi rst use a loose-setting powder over the entire face and let it set for two minutes. Then use a compact setting powder on the oily T-zone. The compact setting powder should be reapplied through- out the day to help the foundation stay put. CONCEALING POSTPROCEDURE BRUISES Most patients experience bruising or erythema following injectables, especially the day following treatment when the affected area turns bluish-purple. To counteract this discoloration, choose a shade with a hint of warmth (for example, golden tones like orange and yellow). I instruct clients to add one to two drops of Flawless Creator to their moisturizer to even out the entire com- plexion. Then apply a concealer—I recommend Quick Fix Concealer—directly onto areas of bruising or erythema. Since the skin can be tender, I advise clients to warm the concealer briefl y on their fi ngertips and then gently tap it over the affected area before blending the concealer with their fi nger or a concealer brush. To prevent running or smudging, set the makeup with compact setting powder—rather than loose powder—us- ing a sponge applicator. Let it set for two minutes and then use a powder brush to remove any excess powder. Rachel Short is the assistant vice president of education. and training at Dermablend. 28 SEPTEMBER 2017 | Med Esthetics PHOTOS COURTESY OF DERMABLEND Acne patient with half-face camoufl age makeup. Teaching patients with skin concerns to apply camoufl age products can improve self-esteem and quality of life. DETAILS Once you've chosen your shades, the camoufl age makeup is blended outward using a makeup sponge, foundation brush or fi ngertips. Then the makeup is set with loose powder.

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