SEP 2017

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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CUTTING-EDGE INGREDIENTS smaller pores, and fewer superfi cial wrinkles and deep wrinkles following six weeks of DefenAge use. The fi ndings were based on histology, high-resolution skin ultrasound and clinical photography, as well as three-dimensional skin imaging and skin scores. GROWTH FACTORS Much remains unknown about the effi cacy of growth factors—or even which ones offer the most aid to aging skin. "We really don't know which growth factors support skin health," says Dr. Baumann. Still, growth factors have become ubiquitous in antiag- ing skin care. "Epidermal growth factor and transform- ing growth factor beta are some of the best known, but some products have 50 different growth factors, each of which plays a role in skin health, and that's why they're so popular right now," says Dr. Gold. "If you can deliver the actives into the skin, [it is believed] these growth factors will fi nd their places in the epidermis and stimulate a host of responses important for aging skin." Growth factor-based products and lines include Skin- medica's TNS Serum, Neocutis's Bio-Restorative Cream, Histogen's Regenica Line, and Biopelle's Tensage line. "Skinmedica and Neocutis have led the way with lots of clinical studies," says Dr. Gold. "I also think Aivita's PRO- VOQUE skincare line is exciting. The founders are part of UC Irvine and spend 99% of their time developing patient- specifi c immunotherapy treatments for cancer, specifi cally ovarian cancer. They took the same human-derived stem cell analogs that they use in their ovarian cancer research and put them into an antiaging product. Zoe Draelos, MD, and Mary Lupo, MD, did a very nice study for them, and all proceeds from the sales of the skincare line go to cancer research. We need to see more data, but the product contains a lot of growth factors because it is using human- derived stem cells." The study by Zoe Draelos, MD, et al—published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (May 2016)—revealed that the stem cell-derived skin lineage precursor secretions, which are the active ingredients in the PROVOQUE line, feature "a high concentration of alpha 2-HS glycoprotein (fetuin) along with a multitude of protein factors involved in the development and maintenance of healthy human skin." Following 12 weeks of use, biopsies revealed "a signifi - cant amelioration of the clinical signs of intrinsic and extrin- sic skin aging, fi ndings that were confi rmed by signifi cant changes in skin morphology, fi laggrin, aquaporin 3, and collagen I content," the authors wrote. HEPARAN SULFATE Heparan sulfate—an essential glycosaminoglycan in skin health—has been studied for decades. "Understanding 34 SEPTEMBER 2017 | Med Esthetics Stem cell secretions in development for cancer treatment are among the latest actives in antiaging skin care. © GETTY IMAGES

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