SEP 2017

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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Page 38 of 76

CUTTING-EDGE INGREDIENTS 36 SEPTEMBER 2017 | Med Esthetics how heparan sulfate controls how cells in the dermis function has been a long-term research interest in my laboratory," says Richard L. Gallo, MD, PhD, head of the Gallo Lab at the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine. "We believe that because heparan sulfate is a co-factor for many other enzymes and growth factors in the skin, it essentially serves as good fertilizer that helps everything in the dermis work better." "Heparan sulfate has been called the 'master molecule,' because it helps every part of our skin," says Dr. Gold. "But the heparan sulfate molecule is too large to penetrate the stratum corneum, so we were not able to create a product [incorporating it]." This changed when a skincare startup Sente developed a heparan sulfate analog that it believed could deliver the active into the dermis. They approached Dr. Gallo for testing. "The molecule has a very unique shape—it's linear, almost like a needle—and it does in fact penetrate the epidermis, dermis and basement membrane," says Dr. Gallo. "We believe its penetration capacity has more do with its shape than with its size." An eight-week study of Sente cream involving 15 patients, published in the July 2015 Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, showed improvement in skin hydration, fi rmness, elasticity, barrier function, and global fi ne lines and wrinkles. "I was quite amazed at how benefi cial a topical applica- tion of heparan sulfate can be in skin damage repair and remodeling," says Dr. Gallo. MICROBIOME-DERIVED PROBIOTICS Topical probiotics, an area of emerging research and product development, have been generating a lot of excitement and anticipation. Research has been primarily geared toward examining the role of skin microbiomes in wound healing and disease, but research has also revealed uses for skin aging. "We're fi nding a lot of basic biological mechanisms that are advancing our understanding of how the bacteria that live on the skin affect the way it behaves," says Dr. Gallo. "And this includes bacteria that change the way the skin turns over, moisturizes itself, resists UV damage, changes pigmentation and becomes infl amed, as well as bacteria that make skin more susceptible to infection. All of these things have very important cosmetic applications." The bacteria that we lose as we age—and appear to be important to skin aging and health—belong to the © GETTY IMAGES Injectable Fillers Consultations see it in action: 1.800.221.0658 • Ink comes off easily! E•Z Removable In Ideally suited for non-surgical aesthetic procedures KYBELLA® is a registered trademark of Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Inc. Botox® is a registered trademark of Allergan, Inc.

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