Medesthetics

JAN-FEB 2013

MedEsthetics magazines offers business education and in-depth coverage of the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures for physicians and practice managers working in the medical aesthetics industry.

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BODY LANGUAGE Antiaging treatments traditionally used for the face, such as chemical peels, are being increasingly performed on the body���especially on areas that are exposed to the elements. ���It is a trend now to treat the d��collet��, body and hands with a combination of acids to target hyperpigmentation, acne and aging,��� says Maria Gutierrez, product manager of Glytone (glytone-usa.com). Her company recently launched Enerpeel Hands, a peel specifcally developed to address hyperpigmentation, wrinkling and thinning skin on the hands. ���Other peels for diferent parts of the body are going to be released, because the market is demanding it,��� she says. Key diferences in chemical peel formulations for the face versus the hands or body center on the types and strengths of acids used. Kononov points out that the trend for facial peels has been toward gentler formulations that cause less redness and peeling. However, glycolic acid and more aggressive AHA exfoliators are very functional on areas such as the elbows and feet. Additionally, active peeling ingredients can be used in higher concentrations on the back to treat chronic breakouts and on the legs for folliculitis, razor bumps and dark spots. Te longevity of in-ofce peels can be increased with topical home care. ���Hand peels often feature a combination of acids���lactic, TCA and kojic���to treat hyperpigmentation and signs of aging, and for immediate brightening,��� says Gutierrez. ���At-home products are more likely to have peptides or hydroquinone.��� A three-pronged approach can create a powerful, targeted antiaging treatment; Gutierrez advocates choosing products that combine traditional skincare ingredients such as glycolic acid, peptides for natural skin repair and antioxidants for protection. Proven Ingredients Find a New Stage Matthew Schulman, MD, a New York-based plastic surgeon and creator of Skin Terapy by Matthew Schulman (msmdskintherapy.com), notes that proven antiaging ingredients are now moving from the face to other exposed areas. ���For areas such as the neck, chest and hands, products with retinol stimulate collagen, eliminate sagging and crepiness, and suppress pigment to even skin tone,��� he says. ���In-ofce treatments will have improved results and long-term benefts when combined with at-home maintenance that���s designed to improve the health of skin and regenerate good skin cells. ���We utilize clinically proven ingredients for the face��� retinols, alpha hydroxy acids (salicylic, glycolic and lactic) and antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E. But we deliver them in a way that works for the body,��� Dr. Schulman explains. Tis includes lowering the concentration of actives for the neck, chest and d��collet�� and increasing actives for less sensitive areas, such as the back, arms and legs. Because there are fewer sebaceous glands on the body than on the face, moisturizing ingredients are of the utmost importance, says Kononov. ���To prevent crepiness, the neck needs moisture, and the same with hands, since they���re subject to constant washing,��� she says. Her company incorporates both short-term and long-term moisturizing agents in its products, including water-based ingredients that quench skin immediately���such as hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate���and those that moisturize throughout the day���like biosaccharide gum. Te company also includes both lipid- and oil-based moisturizers, such as shea or mango butters and sunfower seed oil. Because skin is made up of both ���oil-loving��� and ���water-loving��� components, these ingredients help to maintain the results of laser or radiofrequency treatments and improve outcomes for patients who undergo surgery by refning skin texture, appearance and tone. One of the latest moisturizing ingredients utilized by Revision Skincare is the ���resurrection plant��� (Myrothamnus fabellifolius)���indigenous to South Africa���which grows in extremely rocky, moisture-deprived climates and springs back to life after rain. Quinic acid esters help the plant mediate stressful conditions���similar to conditions that stress skin, like cold, dehydration and changes in humidity levels. ���Moisture is a very elementary concept, Because there are fewer sebaceous glands on the body than on the face, moisturizing ingredients are of the utmost importance. 44 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 | MedEsthetics �� ISTOCKPHOTO.COM Peeling Back Time

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