JUL-AUG 2019

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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UNLOCKING DNA REPAIR 30 JULY/AUGUST 2019 | Med Esthetics © GETTY IMAGES Liposome delivery uses microscopic lipid spheres that hold the DNA repair enzymes inside and penetrate the skin to deliver them into the skin cells. The liposomes are unique for two reasons, says Yarosh: "First, they are composed of the same lipids as the major skin cells, keratinocytes, so they localize in the epidermis. Second, the liposomes are engi- neered to be taken up by these cells, then actively release the DNA repair enzymes when they reach the proper place inside the cell." The DNA repair enzymes and the liposomes work equally well in lightly and darkly pigmented skin, as well as in oily and dry skin. However, the DNA repair enzymes are most effective when delivered to cells soon after UV expo- sure, before the biological consequences occur. Still, says Yarosh: "All people can benefi t from DNA repair. Studies have shown that sun exposure all during our lifetimes affects the skin, so older patients who repair their DNA damage even later in life will be better off than those who don't." DNA repair enzymes now being used in topical skincare lines include: • Photolysomes, DNA repair enzymes extracted from plankton • Mitosomes, DNA repair enzymes extracted from the mustard plant, Arabidopsis thalania • Endosomes, DNA repair enzymes extracted from the marine microbe, Micrococcus lysate While the research behind DNA repair enzymes is encouraging, it is important for physicians to continue to en- courage sound science as these advances move from the lab to the marketplace, notes John Kulesza, chemist and found- er of Young Pharmaceuticals. "If we are going to claim DNA repair, this requires U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approval," he says. "I have confi dence that we will see drugs developed that are capable of repairing DNA—so much good work is being done in this area by people like Daniel Yarosh and Barbara Gilchrest—but the FDA has not approved any product for DNA repair at this time. There is still a huge amount of work to be done to show that these enzymes can enter a living cell and make changes." VITAMIN B 3 Another group of ingredients touted as offering DNA re- pair capabilties is vitamin B 3 derivatives. Ronald Moy, MD, dermatologist and founder of DNA Renewal, has been involved in clinical research on repairing photodamaged, aged and diseased skin for the past quarter century. He became interested in DNA repair enzymes after volun- teering at Camp Sundown, a place for children who have xeroderma pigmentosum. "Normally, we repair our DNA through enzymes in our skin," says Dr. Moy. "I left a window cracked open, and one of the staff hurried to close it. Even that sliver of sun- light was enough to cause a problem for the campers." In addition to following the work of Yarosh, Lindahl, Mo drich and Sancar on DNA repair enzymes, Dr. Moy was taken by the results of a phase 3, double-blind, randomized, In numerous clinical studies, Pro-Niacin has been shown to improve skin tone and texture and reduce sun spots and fi ne lines and wrinkles. The challenge, as with all topical skincare products, is how to deliver these enzymes to the skin cells.

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