Medesthetics

JUL-AUG 2019

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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© GETTY IMAGES 32 JULY/AUGUST 2019 | Med Esthetics UNLOCKING DNA REPAIR controlled trial, published October 22, 2015 in the New England Journal of Medicine, which investigated the use of nicotinamide (a form of vitamin B 3 ) to reduce the rate of nonmelanoma skin cancers. The study revealed that 500 milligrams of nicotinamide increased DNA repair and reduced skin cancers by 23 percent among the Australians who participated in the study. Elaine and Myron Jacobson, biochemists and founders of the Nia24 skin care line, have spent their careers studying the mechanisms of DNA repair—which had its roots in their cancer research for the Mayo Clinic in the 1970's— centered on vitamin B 3 . "Niacin is used in all cells in all organisms as a central component of metabolism," says Elaine. "Our strategy was to optimize the delivery of this important component." Adds Myron: "Pellagra was a killer disease in the early 1900s with symptoms including dermatitis, dementia and sores in the mouth. Once niacin was added to fl our, this deadly disease was pretty much eradicated. As we've come to know about chronic aging, much of the popula- tion is suffering from a niacin defi ciency, which puts addi- tional stress on the immune system." The Jacobsons created a molecule called Pro-Niacin that penetrates the layers of the skin and is converted into nicotinic acid and then nicotinamide adenine dinucleo- tide (NAD), an intercellular bioactive form of niacin that supports repair enzymes. "As we accumulate sun damage, the skin develops a lack of signals to allow it to repair itself," Elaine explains. The breakthrough, says My- ron, "was 90 percent perspira- tion and 10 percent inspiration. The crux of the chemical prob- lem was the challenge of getting water-soluble vitamin B 3 into the fatty surface of the skin." The couple's patented mol- ecule has a structure that allows it to penetrate the epidermis and reach the skin cells. "It is continu- ally released at the site where the receptors are at the base of the epidermis, and the niacin goes into those cells," says Elaine. In numerous clinical studies, Pro-Niacin has been shown to improve skin tone and texture and reduce sun spots and fi ne lines and wrinkles. But as with DNA repair enzymes, the topical is more effective for immediate damage vs. long- term photodamage. "We tell people we can't promise bet- ter looking skin but we can promise healthier skin—and over time that results in better-looking skin," says Myron. "This takes time. One should not expect a cosmetic prod- uct to work in 24 hours." Advances in skincare technologies are happening at a rapid pace. "The level of science and skin biology in some of the new skincare technologies is quite remarkable," says Yarosh. Still, he and Dr. Moy note that DNA protection and repair is a multi-faceted issue that requires a multi-faceted approach. "Diet is a big part of our health," says Dr. Moy. "It plays a role in our immune system, but that aspect is often not addressed with patients." Adds Yarosh: "DNA repair does not go on in a vacuum. It is infl uenced by the immune system, the nervous sys- tem, and even the skin microbiome. Understanding these interactions opens many opportunities to further improve DNA repair in skin." Echo Montgomery Garrett is a freelance writer based in Marietta, Georgia. Studies surrounding the use of topical DNA repair enzymes and vitamin B 3 derivatives center on their ability to reduce the rates of nonmelanoma skin cancers.

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