Medesthetics

MAR 2014

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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specially treated seawater at an optimal temperature, or we culture them in special marine sites," says Morvan. "That way, the extraction always has the same composition and, thus, the same effi cacy. In addition, the organism cannot be contaminated by other species or by pollutants in the water. And the process really enhances sustainability. We can now produce the same amount of algae in three weeks that would have taken three years to grow in the ocean." Some institutes specialize in collecting marine species, many of which are rarely seen by humans. The Australian Institute of Marine Science (AIMS), one of the world's top specialist research institutions, for example, has cultivated a sizeable collection of marine micro-organisms from Australia's unique marine territory. In November 2013, they signed an agreement with Scotland-based Aquapharm Biodiversity, allowing the manufacturer to screen a range of their collection of microbes, looking for extracts that can be used in personal care products. Other similar projects are giving cosmeceutical and personal care companies increased access to a wide range of marine organisms. PROMISING MARINE COMPOUNDS Major companies like Estée Lauder and La Prairie are using ingredients collected from the sea. Pro-Collagen Marine Cream from Elemis (elemis.com), a worldwide bestseller, for example, depends on extracts from Chlorella vulgaris, a single-cell green alga with proven antioxidant properties; Padina pavonica, a brown alga; and Porphyridium creuntum, a red microalga, as active ingredients. "Some commonly used marine ingredients include carrageenan, a thickening agent derived from the red alga Chondrus crispus; brown algae extracts, which have been shown to affect skin function and structure and offer water binding properties; Fucus vesiculosus extract; blue algae extract; spirulina, a type of blue green alga; and Ulva sea lettuce, an edible green alga," says Gogi Sangha, chief scientifi c offi cer, GS Cosmeceutical (gscos.com), a custom contract manufacturer of cosmeceuticals. While the sea offers almost unlimited diversity, researchers are fi nding commonalities as well. "While mi- croalgae are very different from plants that grow on land, we have recognized a set of subunits that are similar in the marine plants we have studied—the same sugars, amino acids, etc.," notes Morvan. The following are just some of the marine compounds currently being studied and their suggested applications. Algae produce different polysaccharides, including alginates, laminarans, and fucoidans. Alginates are used mostly in food as thickeners and emulsifi ers, says Hughes. Fucoidans are being studied extensively for their potential antitumor, antiviral, anticomplement and anti-infl ammatory MARINE-BASED INGREDIENTS ÒWe can now produce the same amount of algae in three weeks that would have taken years to grow in the ocean.Ó Rhonda Allison Sea Gems features marine organisms alteromonas ferment extract, pseudoalteromonas ferment ex- tract and thermos thermophiles to reduce wrinkle formation, deliver oxygen to the skin and limit free radical damage. Con- tact: rhondaallison.com. Hydropeptide Cleansing Gel is formulated with pseudoal- teromonas and expolysaccharides to hydrate skin and stimulate collagen and elastin production. Contact: hydropeptide.com. Soothe and Calm Facial Sculpting Lotion from Eraclea uses mineral-rich seaweed plus herbal extracts and antioxidants to relieve swell- ing from excess fl uid and promote detoxifi ca- tion of the skin. Contact: eracleaskincare.com. 50 MARCH 2014 | Med Esthetics M a r i n e B a s e d M E D 3 1 4 . i n d d 5 0 Marine Based MED314.indd 50 2 / 1 1 / 1 4 3 : 5 6 P M 2/11/14 3:56 PM

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