Medesthetics

MAR 2014

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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properties (Thomas and Kim, Marine Drugs, January 2013). "Fucoidans have been shown to inhibit the ability of viruses to spread by preventing them from entering healthy cells," says Hughes. "Our company has a library of marine microorganisms that each provide a specifi c polysaccharide different in composition from the others and with different effects," says Morvan. "One enhances skin texture and quality, while another has a mattifying effect, reducing sebum to get rid of the shine and help control acne. All have been incorpo- rated into current skincare products during the past three years. We are working on two more polysaccharides that show promise for future products: The fi rst shows effi cacy in diminishing dark spots or unwanted pigmentation. The second is a collagen stimulator. We are also working on the evolution of EPS's [exopolysaccharides], modifying them by the addition of other compounds, such as minerals, or us- ing marine enzymes to modify them, with exciting results." The exopolysaccharide (EPS) Seafi ll is a sugar produced outside the cells of brown seaweed. "It is similar to a biofi lm, produced by microorganisms as protection in response to environmental stress," explains Morvan. "We have analyzed the EPS compound and have learned to culture it in our labs." Morvan and Vallee published fi ndings of their studies of EPS Seafi ll in the April 2012 issue of the journal Marine Ingredients. They investigated the antiaging properties of 1% purifi ed and completely sequenced EPS Seafi ll using in vitro tests on single layers of normal human dermal fi broblasts and fi broblasts in collagen lattices, mea- suring wrinkle depth using immunofl uorescence. They also compared a single application of a 2% EPS Seafi ll cream and a placebo cream in 17 caucasian female volunteers, aged 45 to 65 years. Results indicated that EPS Seafi ll in- creases collagen and elastin synthesis in human fi broblasts, generating a signifi cant tightening effect on the collagen fi ber network. The May/June 2013 issue of the Journal of Cosmetic Science includes a general literature review of a modifi ed marine compound, a novel seaweed oligosaccharide and zinc complex, SOZC. The authors concluded that "SOZC ameliorates symptoms of acne vulgaris, particularly in terms of reducing sebum production and populations of Propionibacterium acnes." In June 2012, researchers at the San Gallicano Dermal Institute in Rome, Italy, published a study of 60 age-matched sub- jects with mild acne treated randomly with the oligosac- charide and zinc complex or a placebo (Clin Exp Derm). The marine complex with zinc sig- nifi cantly reduced acne lesions compared to the control. Catabolites derived from Fucus vesiculosus, a brown seaweed that grows in marine areas subject to extreme environmental changes, have been investigated for their antiaging properties (Fujimura, et al, Journal of Cosmetic Sciences, Jan/Feb 2002). A trial of a 1% cream showed signifi cant skin tightening in 10 subjects. More recently, in June 2013, BASF introduced an undereye cream that relies on Fucus vesiculosus extract as its primary active ingredient. The company claims the cream removes free heme to fade dark circles and reduce wrinkles around the eyes. Fucoxanthin, extracted from Laminaria japonica, has shown the ability to suppress tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in lab animals irradiated with UV-B when delivered as an oral supplement (Thomas and Kim, Marine Drugs, January 2013). Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are ultraviolet light screening compounds that exist in a wide range of organisms, but the stable MAA compounds from algae appear to offer the best hope for the development of broad-spectrum sunscreens. A 2010 study in Marine Drugs by Carole Anne Llewellyn and Ruth Louise Airs identifi ed MAAs in 33 species of microalgae from tropical, temperate and polar aquatic environments. In 2011, Dr. Paul Long and his team at King's College discovered how naturally occurring MAA's are pro- duced. Algae living within coral make a compound that is transported to the coral, which then modifi es it into a sun- screen for the benefi t of both the coral and the algae. Not only does this protect them both from UV damage, but fi sh that feed on the coral also benefi t from this sunscreen protection. In September 2012, King's College London entered into an agreement with skincare company Aethic to develop the fi rst sunscreen based on MAA's. Professor Antony Young and colleagues at the St John's Institute of Dermatology at King's College are currently testing the MARINE-BASED INGREDIENTS 52 MARCH 2014 | Med Esthetics "SOZC ameliorates symptoms of acne vulgaris, particularly in ter ms of reducing sebum production and populations of propionibacterium acnes." © ISTOCKPHOTO.COM continued on page 66 M a r i n e B a s e d M E D 3 1 4 . i n d d 5 2 Marine Based MED314.indd 52 2 / 1 1 / 1 4 3 : 5 7 P M 2/11/14 3:57 PM

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