Medesthetics

MAY-JUN 2016

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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RETURN TO BASELINE 40 MAY/JUNE 2016 | Med Esthetics Oftentimes, formulators create proprietary complexes that include both anti-infl ammatory and barrier repair ingredients. "NeoStrata Redness Neutralizing Serum contains BioCalm Complex, a specially designed blend of ingredients that calms and soothes neurosensory irritation, such as stinging; it reduces redness and strengthens the skin's barrier and underlying support matrix as well," says Green. "The key ingredients include Canadian willowherb extract, palmitoyl tripeptide, red and brown algae, and gluconolactone with lactobionic acid. The product also features several other calming ingredients, including bisabolol and white tea extract." Most postprocedure products contain multiple calming and hydrating ingredients in order to address not only the various concerns of damaged skin, but also the numerous pathways that create infl ammation and redness. "There are seven infl ammation pathways in the skin after stratum corneum damage," says Dr. Thornfeldt. "The most potent anti-infl ammatory ingredients block at least three of these pathways. Anti-infl ammatory agents are more effective postprocedure than ingredients with only antioxidant function, since only two of these pathways utilize oxidation reactions. Beeswax, lanolin and shark oil are animal-derived products that offer mild barrier repair, anti-infl ammatory effects and antimicrobial functionality as well." Patients undergoing skin resurfacing treatments should receive written post-care instructions, including recommended homecare products. Episciences, for example, offers two different postprocedure kits. "These consist of products that contain active barrier repair and optimizing ingredients, antimicrobial ingredients and infl ammation-mitigating ingredients," he says. "We recommend patients use these products every three to six hours during the fi rst two days after a treatment to reduce redness, then use our Epionce Medical Barrier Cream three times daily for the next two to four days." Depending on the aggressiveness of the procedure, Dr. Graf starts patients with either Aquaphor, petrolatum or Avène Cicalfate, "which provides immediate soothing and cooling," she says. Because postprocedure skin is vulnerable and irritated, "Have patients gently apply the postprocedure topical and allow it to absorb into the skin. Pressure during the application will only overstimulate the skin and slow down healing time," says Entis. "The patient's environment also has an effect on a speedy recovery. Counsel patients to avoid excessive heat and extreme cold—when the skin has to work hard to defend itself from the environment, it takes energy away from healing." Creating a simple post-care instruction sheet as well as a list—or retail bag—of recommended homecare products will help your patients achieve their desired outcomes while also providing the most comfortable treatment and recovery experience possible. Shelley Moench-Kelly is a Vermont-based writer and editor. Patients must be counseled to avoid sun exposure and use a physical sunscreen, such as zinc (pictured) and titanium oxide-based formulations, to protect their skin following resurfacing procedures. © GETTY IMAGES

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