Medesthetics

NOV-DEC 2016

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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BACKGROUND: ANTHONY BRADSHAW © GETTY IMAGES; TOP: REMAINS © GETTY IMAGES 26 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 | MedEsthetics Acid, which provides both hydration and antiaging benefi ts. We incorporated a natural carbohydrate complex to help strengthen the skin barrier as well as a blend of amino acids strengthen the skin barrier as well as a blend of amino acids that make up the skin's NMF," says Konish. When recommending products to patients, it's important When recommending products to patients, it's important to look at the quality and combination of ingredients offered. to look at the quality and combination of ingredients offered. "Every single ingredient in the product counts. They all affect effi cacy," says Dr. Baumann, who wrote the leading affect effi cacy," says Dr. Baumann, who wrote the leading affect effi cacy," says Dr. Baumann, who wrote the leading textbook on antiaging skincare (Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic textbook on antiaging skincare (Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients, McGraw Hill). "For example, olive oil is an occlusive but it has oleic acid, which has fatty acid legs that occlusive but it has oleic acid, which has fatty acid legs that curve out. This means the fatty acids cannot pack together curve out. This means the fatty acids cannot pack together curve out. This means the fatty acids cannot pack together as closely as the ones with straight legs (fatty acid chains) as closely as the ones with straight legs (fatty acid chains) such as stearic acid (in shea butter). So using oleic acid can such as stearic acid (in shea butter). So using oleic acid can actually make holes in the skin that allow other ingredients to get in better but also let water evaporate off. This means to get in better but also let water evaporate off. This means to get in better but also let water evaporate off. This means that olive oil is an antioxidant and an occlusive but in the long run leads to skin dehydration." Dr. Duboys encourages providers to do their due diligence. "I need to know that the products I recommend have been tested and researched extensively to ensure they have been tested and researched extensively to ensure they don't over-promise and under-deliver," he says. "Further- don't over-promise and under-deliver," he says. "Further- more, any product must show a minimum of adverse effects, including sensitivity, allergic reaction and overstimula- effects, including sensitivity, allergic reaction and overstimula- tion of the skin." Selecting the Right Products "When it comes to moisturizers, one size does not fi t all," says Kulesza. "Even youngsters with acne need a moisturizer from time to time, but any formulation for them would need to rely on humectants like HA, while one for a 50-year-old would need to include an occlusive agent like squalane or a heavier emollient such as petrolatum." "It is important to have the right levels of hydrophilic and "It is important to have the right levels of hydrophilic and lipophilic moisture for each skin type," agrees Kononov. "Too much lipophilic moisture can cause issues with skin that is already oily. Additionally, many moisturizers provide short-term hydration to the skin but are lacking when it short-term hydration to the skin but are lacking when it comes to long-term benefi ts. Sodium hyaluronate, for example, is an amazing short-term moisturizer, but is most example, is an amazing short-term moisturizer, but is most helpful when combined with a moisturizer that has more long-term benefi ts. Revision Skincare's Hydrating Serum, for example, has effi cacious levels of both sodium hyaluro- nate and Biosaccharide Gum-1 for short-term and lasting nate and Biosaccharide Gum-1 for short-term and lasting hydration benefi ts." Environmental conditions can also change the skin's need for hydration. "As a rule, oilier skin does not require as many lipids," says Dr. Duboys, "but during the harsher winter months or in drier climates the lipid requirement to maintain proper barrier function may increase." Patients may also require more intense hydration following skin resurfacing procedures that can leave skin dehydrated. skin resurfacing procedures that can leave skin dehydrated. Dr. Duboys has his patients switch to GMC Medical's Intense Moisture Serum for a minimum of two weeks prior to any resurfacing procedure. "This aids in wound healing and pre- resurfacing procedure. "This aids in wound healing and pre- pares the skin for surgery," he says. "Additionally, I advise its continued use for a minimum of four weeks postprocedure to ensure proper hydration and healing of the skin." How topicals feel and smell to the patient may affect usage as well. Providing samples and offering patients a choice in effective products can go a long way toward ensuring compliance. QUENCHING THE THIRST "Many moisturizers provide short-term hydration to the skin but are lacking when it comes to long-term benefi ts. "

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