MAY-JUN 2018

MedEsthetics—business education for medical practitioners—provides the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures, treatment trends, product and equipment reviews, legal issues and medical aesthetics industry news.

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Page 49 of 68 | MAY/JUNE 2018 47 SIGNALING PEPTIDES Today, rather than placing actual growth factors into their formulations, many skincare manufacturers are looking to peptides that can trigger skin cells to perform specifi c func- tions. For example, companies such as DefenAge, Skinprint and Alastin are utilizing proprietary cocktails of peptides in an effort to reduce infl ammation, protect skin and increase collagen and elastin production. Here are several peptides that have been shown through double-blind, placebo-controlled studies to positively af- fect aging skin, according to Silke Karin Schagen of Beldio Research in Germany, who published "Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results" (Cosmetics, May 22, 2017), a review of peptides in antiaging skincare. Carnosine, a dipeptide and antioxidant that has been shown to reduce erythema. Trifl uoroacetyl-Tripeptide-2 reduced wrinkles and improved skin fi rmness and elasticity in two in vivo split-face trials. Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, a tetra- peptide, specifi cally targets collagen fi ber organization. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, a messenger peptide (also called pal-GHK and palmitoyl oligopeptide), stimulates collagen and glycosamino- glycan synthesis. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3/5 prevents collagen break- down by interfering with MMP1 and MMP3 collagen degradation. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) stimulates the production of elastin, fi bronectin, glucosaminoglycan and collagen types I, III and IV. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Rigin) acts as an anti- infl ammatory after exposure to UVB-irradiation. Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 stimulates collagen and elastin fi broblasts. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9/11 (Dermican) stimulates collagen type I and keratinocyte cell growth. Tetrapeptide-21 increases of collagen type I produc- tion, hyaluronic acid synthase 1 production and fi bronectin. Tetrapeptide PKEK, a skin-lightening peptide, inhibits UVB-induced upregulation of interleukin (IL)-1α, IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α as well as proopiomelanocorticotropin (POMC) and tyrosinase. Hexapeptide-11 improves skin elasticity and is believed to interfere with the onset of senescence in fi broblasts. Hexapeptide-14 stimulates cell migration, collagen synthesis and fi broblast proliferation and scaffolding. In addition to peptides, Dr. Baumann notes that there are other proven antiaging ingredients, such as vitamin C, hydroxy acids and retinoids, that stimulate aging cells. "Interestingly, one study (Mechanisms of Aging, June 2017) also showed that green tea (epigallocatechin gallate) topi- cally upregulated production of epidermal growth factor," she says. Though peptides are much smaller than growth factors (typically less than 500 Da), due to their hydrophilic nature, they also have diffi culty penetrating the stratum corneum. To address this, formulators often use liposomal delivery. "One way to deliver the active materials is to put the compounds into a liposome. Based on pH or depth, the liposome will then release the actives," says Manzo. "The problem is, this increases the cost of the product signifi cant- ly, so you typically see this only in physician-dispensed lines where we can have higher price points." So how do you choose the right products for your patients? Reviewing clinicals and speaking with colleagues is a good start, but also try the products yourself. "Sampling is a big trend because skincare companies have to be very careful about the claims they make about their products," says Manzo. "A company may have a great new technol- ogy, but they can't talk about it so they say with this $75 purchase, you get three samples; with $150, you get six samples. So do try the products fi rst and share them with your patients." Inga Hansen is the executive editor of MedEsthetics. "Sampling is a big trend because skincare companies have to be very careful about the claims they make about their products." © GETTY IMAGES

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