MedEsthetics magazines offers business education and in-depth coverage of the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures for physicians and practice managers working in the medical aesthetics industry.
Issue link: https://medesthetics.epubxp.com/i/101607
BODY LANGUAGE but so important,��� says Kononov. ���Tink about how hydration is important to the body internally; it���s the same for skin. Stressed skin is aging skin.��� Ingredient Intelligence Peptides, antioxidants and vitamin C���popular facial ingredients���are now being applied to the neck and hands and even added into sunscreen, but stability remains key, says Kononov. ���One of the ingredients breaking through now is THD ascorbate, a vitamin C derivative that���s unique in that it���s extremely stable and functional,��� she explains. ���It���s similar to L-ascorbic acid, but without those issues of being unstable and not bioavailable.��� THD ascorbate is designed to improve stability and shelf life of vitamin C-based products, where it functions as a high-quality moisturizer, skin brightener and wound healer. It also promotes collagen synthesis and protects skin from UVA/ UVB rays. ���It���s antiaging, antioxidant and brightening. It���s a very expensive ingredient, but it is the gold standard of vitamin C technology,��� says Kononov. Tocopheryl Glucoside���a more stable form of vitamin E���is also fnding its way into highend skin and body care formulations. Schulman utilizes the powder form of ECGC���the active ingredient in green tea. His ECGCbased products are mixed upon purchase, allowing for a 30-day activation time, or 60 days if refrigerated. ���ECGC is extremely unstable, and within a few weeks, it���s completely deactivated,��� he says. Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common signs of aging on the neck, chest and hands. And, as the debate over hydroquinone rages on, many formulators are on the lookout for other options. ���Hydroquinone has gotten a bad rap and it is being replaced by alternatives such as Chromabright, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate,��� says Terese Clark, co-founder of Phoenix-based mybody (lovemybody.com). ���We���re looking for a plant-based alternative [to hydroquinone], but we���re not there yet.��� Schulman notes that the 2% hydroquinone allowed for OTC skin lighteners isn���t always strong enough Fitting Room from mybody tackles cellulite with a proprietary anti-cellulite complex that ���rms, tones, tightens and brightens while fortifying skin with antioxidant and antiin���ammatory ingredients. The system includes Skin Prep Body Polish, Firm & Tone Body Serum, Firm & Tone Body Lotion and the Smooth It Out Shaper. 877.423.1314, lovemybody.com. Lumiquin from Revision Skincare brightens skin and reduces age spots and uneven pigmentation on the hands and arms with licorice root extract, diacetyl boldine, quinic acid esters, THD ascorbate, and a blend of naturally derived moisturizers. 800.385.6652, revisionskincare.com. Brighten PLUS application pads for the neck and d��collet�� from Skin Therapy by Matthew Schulman offer natural skin brighteners that inhibit melanin production to reduce irregular pigmentation. Arbutase, kojic acid, alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin C reduce pigmentation, while green tea soothes skin. 212.289.1851, msmdskintherapy.com. 46 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 | MedEsthetics The Beautifoot 90-minute foot peel from Gio Pelle exfoliates dry and cracked feet with a bootie pre���lled with a plant extract solution. The single-use packet removes dead layers of skin with natural fruit acids, allowing keratinocytes to re-establish natural moisture balance. 800.428.1610, giopelle.com. Glytone Ultra Heel and Elbow Cream retexturizes, softens and smooths rough, calloused elbows and heels with 29.5% free acid value glycolic acid for maximum penetration and ef���cacy. The formula can be massaged onto dry areas or used as a treatment mask on elbows. 800.459.8663, glytone-usa.com.