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SPOTLIGHT ON SUN PROTECTON 26 MARCH 2015 | Med Esthetics blocking agents like Parsol or avobenzone are good but not very stable. The addition of Mexoryl SX could help keep them from breaking down in sunlight. Tinosorb is another interesting option, which can even be used in detergents to give clothing the ability to block more UV radiation." Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M) absorbs both UVB and UVA rays, and it can also refl ect and scatter UV radiation. Skin penetration is minimal and it degrades very little in sun- light; it can help stabilize other UV absorbers as well. "We use it in Avène High Protection SPF 50+ available outside the U.S.," says Ewelina Aiossa, director of marketing for Pierre Fabre USA. "As skin cancer rates continue to climb, we need to be able to react faster with a more diversifi ed portfolio of sunscreen actives, including those that have long been in use in Europe, Canada and other coun- tries. We are relying on sunscreen science that's over a decade old—practically ancient in the world of medicine. Americans shouldn't have to wait decades for access to the most advanced effective sunscreens." Tinosorb S has the same attributes as Tinosorb M and is more oil soluble. Mexoryl XL is the oil soluble version of Mexoryl SX. Other ingredients awaiting approval are Amiloxate from Symrise (symrise.com), Enzacamene from EMD (emdchemicals.com) and octyl triazone from BASF (basf. com)—all are UVB fi lters with a long history of use in other countries. The FDA still has a lot of work to do when it comes to sunscreen regulations. In addition to reviewing the grow- ing list of sunscreen actives, the agency has said it will address the need for an upper limit on SPF claims. It has also called for more data on the effectiveness and safety of spray-on sunscreen products. In September 2014 the FDA's Nonprescription Drugs Advisory Committee (NDAC) called for long-term safety studies of sunscreens and expressed concern that the current "ingredient focused monograph" process for over- the-counter drug approval could fail to detect issues with actual products, such as increased skin penetration when combined with an otherwise inert vehicle. "Sunscreen fi lters do behave very differently in formulations," says Manzo. "A formulation with an ingredient that provides lower surface tension on the skin, allowing the sunscreen to spread more uniformly, may be more effective. But The following eight UV fi lters have been awaiting FDA approval for fi ve to a dozen years. Amiloxate (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), also known as Neo Heliopan. Approved in the EU and Asia. Submitted 2002. Bemotrizinol (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), also known as Tinosorb S. Approved in the EU and Australia. Submitted 2005. Bisoctrizole (methylene bisbenzotriazolyl- tetramethylbutylphenol), also known as Tinosorb M. Approved in Australia and Japan. Submitted 2005. Drometrizole Trisiloxane , also known as Mexoryl XL. Approved in the EU. Submitted 2009. Ecamsule (terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), also known as Mexoryl SX. L'Oreal was granted FDA approval for a specifi c formulation of ecamsule in 2006, but it is not approved for use in other formulations. Submitted 2007. Enzacamene (dimethico-diethylbenzalmalonate), also known as Parsol SLX. Approved in the EU and Asia. Submitted 2002. Iscotrizinol (diethylhexylbutamido triazone ), also known as Uvasorb HEB. Approved in the EU and Asia. Submitted 2005. Octyl Triazone (ethylhexyl triazone), also known as Uvinul T 150. Approved in the EU, Australia and Japan. Submitted 2002. © GETTY IMAGES continued on page 81