MedEsthetics magazines offers business education and in-depth coverage of the latest noninvasive cosmetic procedures for physicians and practice managers working in the medical aesthetics industry.
Issue link: https://medesthetics.epubxp.com/i/101607
BODY LANGUAGE to achieve good results; thus, many formulators have switched to alternatives, including arbutin, kojic acid and licorice extract. To tackle dark spots and discoloration, formulators���including Revision Skincare���are fnding that a combination of skin lightening and brightening ingredients is most efective. Te continued consumer interest in ���green��� and natural products means that what is not in skincare formulations is becoming as important to users as what is in them, says Clark. Modern consumers are shying away from well-publicized ingredients, including parabens, xenoestrogens, sulfates, PEG and phthalates. Mybody has developed a peel line utilizing non-living probiotics that work to increase oxygen, build volume and stimulate skin to repair itself without creating an injury. ���Tese ingredients are being re-engineered to be skin-compatible, allowing them to be delivered into skin and easily digested by enzymes (lipases),��� says Clark, who notes that even with the move toward more natural ingredients, consumer expectations of what a skincare product should look and feel like limits formulators who are moving toward for the body; with a spray format, a thin layer can dry within a minute and doesn���t come of���plus, it���s easier to apply to the back and chest,��� he says. Gutierrez agrees with Schulman that serums are overall very efective and the star format for many of-face formulations. ���Penetration enhancers, such as dimethyl isosorbide, also ofer better penetration, delivering active ingredients in a more targeted way,��� she says. Slimming and Toning Products focused on slimming the body and reducing cellulite have long been a mainstay of body-based skin care, and these popular formulations are being improved, says Clark. ���Body creams have traditionally been cafeine-based and sit on top of skin, so they���re uncomfortable. Tat���s been a big problem with body care���the products��� texture doesn���t feel good,��� she says. New oferings include a combination of proven skin-strengthening ingredients, like topical retinol to build collagen and strengthen skin, plus new algae- and plant-derived alpha blockers to help reduce cellulite. ���Body creams have traditionally been caffeine-based and sit on top of skin, so they���re uncomfortable. That���s been a big problem with body care.��� more natural formulations, as it is difcult to avoid the use of artifcial dyes and colors for patients who want the ���perfect white cream,��� she says. Special Delivery When it comes to the format of bodycare products, there are some special concerns formulators must take into account. While thicker creams and serums tend to ofer the best penetration, Schulman notes that creams often have the disadvantage of being greasy, messy or heavy. Products that have the potential to discolor clothing or wipe of easily are a poor choice for the body. ���Sprays and serums are great 48 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 | MedEsthetics Mybody���s Fitting Room, for example, incorporates Lanachrys, a botanical alpha-2 blocker that promotes lipolysis, and Teophyllisilane C���a silicone derivative of theophylline acetic acid and alginic acid���which protects structural proteins from glycation, improves the architectural structure of the skin by replacing naturally occurring silicium and promotes lipolysis. In addition to more elegant formulations and improved ingredient technologies, skincare products developed for the neck, hands, feet and body are also benefting from increased consumer awareness of the importance of skin care. ���It used to be that clients needed to see an immediate diference. But today, people are aware that sunscreen and antioxidants are important even though the benefts will take years to manifest,��� says Kononov. ���Tey are learning the long-term importance of skin care���including care of the hands, neck and body.��� ME Tracy Morin is a freelance writer and editor based in Oxford, MS.